Howdy partner

Luang Namtha really should have some horses, a sheriff and a few cowboys roaming around. It has that Western, John Wayne feel to it. The roads are dusty and it is eirily quiet - like at any minute a gun fight could ensue. You wake up in the morning to the sounds of Old Macdonald's farm - cockrels, goats, dogs etc.

Apart from that - it is a lovely town set by the Nam Tha river, with some great cycling, trekking and rafting opportunities.


"The tree appeared out of nowhere as we paddled furiously down a grade 2 rapid in our white water kayak. Before we knew what was happening our kayak was on top of the tree and we were hanging on for dear life!

Thankfully the current wasn't too strong and the kayak freed itself and coasted into the calmer water. However as Sam looked to the back of the kayak to laugh at Garry, she saw an empty seat... Garry was still hanging onto the tree!"


All's well that ends well, and Garry swam back to the kayak and jumped on ready for the next set of rapids. We stopped at several minority villages by the river and had a Lao dinner on the banks of the Nam Tha. White water kayaking is much more of an adrenaline rush than the rafting, mainly because you haven't got an experienced guide steering. You are in control of where the kayak goes. Still, great fun!

"Sabai Dee" Laos

Our bus was leaving from the other side of the river in half an hour. Not only did we have to cross the river and find the bus station, but we had to get out of Thailand and pass through Laos immigration control.

We ran to the border crossing at Chang Khong only to find that we had outstayed our Thai visa by 1 day. "You will have to wait," said the ever helpful border control officer. "Great start!" We finally suceeded in escaping Thailand with a 1000 Thai Baht fine. A short boat ride later and we were greeted by a nice lady saying: "Welcome to Loas!" We flew thro' passport control and hopped on a pickup truck with a Dutch couple which took us to the main bus station.

We had made it! The bus was there and fully loaded. Our rucksacks were thrown on the roof, joining the five motorbikes and countless satellite dishes, televisions etc. We squeezed into our seats and the bus finally left an hour after it should have!

The journey to Luang Namtha was 9 hrs. The road was awful - no tarmac and so bumpy. One poor guy couldn't stop being sick. At one point we had to get off the bus for it to go up a hill. We picked up people on the way and when we thought they couldn't squeeze any more on - a man with a 3 ducks joined us! (See photo of the flat tyre).

We arrived in Luang Namtha exhausted in the early evening. We followed the Dutch couple to a clean and large hotel ($6 a night) and had shower, dinner and then bed.