The highlights

We have been back in the UK for three weeks now. We are slowly getting back into the swing of things, but yet to get jobs or anything silly like that! Here are the highlights of our trip contained in one photo per country:

USA

Tahiti

The Cook Islands

Vietnam

Cambodia

Laos

Thailand

India

Homeward bound

We woke up one day to bright skies and fresh smog and a strange feeling in the pits of our stomachs. No, it wasn't the lentil dahl eaten the night before, but the familiar pull of far away home.

This particular morning we were planning to visit the Taj Mahal, but before we went out we said to each other: "Let's go home." There was no drama or upset; it was a simple decision.

With in two hours we had cancelled our flight from Kathmandu and rebooked one from Delhi. With in four days we were back, overjoyed at being on British soil for the first time in 14 months. When we came out of customs into Heathrow's entry lounge the red carpet was laid out and people began cheering and the trumpets started playing.... (OK, that was in our heads!) But Sam's dad did have a huge banner: "Welcome home Sam and Garry - world travellers!"

Welcome home indeed!

Delhi surprise

Everyone had said how horrible Delhi was, and we had decided not to visit and go straight to Varanasi. The great super highway of life had a different plan though and one grim day we found ourselves there, dazed and confused, but pleasantly surprised!

The city itself is actually quite decent. Modern amenities and some pretty good shops. Lots of hassle as usual which wasn't made any easier by the fact that we were both feeling awful and very tired. Still we dragged ourselves out and had two days worth of shopping (which definitely wasn't enough!).

One morning we woke up and made a monumental decision which could alter the rest of our lives and maybe even the space time continuum (or something like that) ......

Exceeds expectation

They call the Taj Mahal the greatest monument to love in the world. We have been disappointed with most things in India, but when we saw the Taj for the first time we definitely weren't disappointed. It cost the equivalent of US$ 300 million in today's money to build and is worth every cent. We crossed the river yesterday and saw the Taj from the back - no tourists and great light. Today we will visit the red fort and 'little' Taj' and tomorrow go and walk round the Taj Mahal.

Agra is a poor city - one of the poorest we have seen. We wondered where the money (ten pounds for tourists) goes to - definitely not the people.

There a few other sights to see in Agra including the Fort and a few old churches. The Red Fort was impressive, but we'd seen so many by this time that it was just another big, red, old, building! The weather has become more stifling and the heat oppressive.

The eye of the tiger

Garry got up at 5am to catch the jeep going into Ranthambore National Park. The aim was to spot the Indian tiger. There aren't many of them left, but Ranthambore is one of the best places to spot one. He woke Sam up at 10am with a cup of tea and a scowl. No tiger this time.

We both went out in the afternoon and after spotting crocodiles, deer, wild boar, owls and hundreds of birds we came out of the park without seeing the tiger. Gggrrrrrrr....

The park was beautiful and although we were disappointed (as well as broke!) it was a great experience. We caught the train to Agra with an Irish couple who were fresh off the boat horrified that we had travelled through India like this. The train was busy and we had no seats so it was a bit rough. We arrived at Agra at 10.30pm and didn't realise that our hotel had a great view of the Taj Mahal until we woke up the next morning and opened the curtains. WOW!

Ephesians 6

We must be the only people to visited India and never step foot in a temple. Although Hinduism claims 330 million gods and goddesses, we have paid homage to none of them. Whereever you go there is someone asking if you would like to have a blessing from the goddess Parvati or some demonic one eye monstrosity with 50 arms. Someone will grab your hand and start to read your palm as you walk down the street and we have to very politely explain that we can't use their service or worship their gods as we are born again, bible believeing Christians and our God is a jealous God.

Thoughts on religion in India

What struck us when looking at the Hindu, Christian, Muslim problem (or lack of it) in India is that the reason they all get on is because most of them don't have a clue what their religion means. Ask an ordinary Muslim about the Koran and he'll give a confused, vague answer. The Muslims even have castes up in the north! Ask a Christian about Jesus and he'll tell you about the lattest saint who's 1000 year old body is still on show in the cathedral. Ask a Hindu what they believe and they'll tell you about their god which they have a vague story about.

We have met some born again Christians in the south who were very serious about their beliefs and had a firm set of morals and ethics. The problem with the Hindus (it seems to us) in India is their lack of social responsibility. They are not taught the difference between right and wrong or that they need to care for their neighbours etc. The caste system means that many of them are forces into slavery or a life of begging and destitution. For centuries the notions of reincarnation and karma have been used to support the cruelties of the Indian caste system, which relegates the majority of people to poverty and subservience.

The religion we have been impressed with is that of Sikhism. They do not believe in the caste system and have a very strong work ethic. It is a sort of mixture of Hindu and Muslim belief and they believe strongly in charity and helping the poor. You never see a Sikh begging or ponsing around in designer gear. They are a well mannered, mild, caring people.

One thing is for certain (if you believe in a spiritual realm), that the dark forces of this world are very much alive and kicking in India. The Bible says: "For we struggle not against flesh and blood, but against the kingdoms, against the powers, against the leaders of this darkness, against spiritual wickedness in the high places" Ephesians 6:12.

The fastest Indian

We have met some great Indians. All of them believe that India is racially superior to the rest of the world and believe their government's propaganda that India will be the world's superpower by 2050. The upper middle classes (especially the Brahmin) live in a different world to the normal people. The racist is staggering here. A light skinned person won't accept food from someone darker than them for example.

The poor view life very simply. They live from hand to mouth, never looking to the future or planning. If they have more money - their lifestyle doesn't improve. They will buy a new camel rather than improving their home or buying new clothes.

The pink city

We have loved the past two weeks. Things have been easier and much more enjoyable. We thought we were on a roll and the north would be a much more pleasant experience. That was until we arrived into the horror that is Jaipur.

Sam gets constant pervy looks and the men jeer as she walks down the street. She has adopted the usual western woman look when in India - looking vacantly up into the air, avoiding eye contact with anything in trousers and completely ignoring them when they speak. Here, only prostitutes look men in the eye. It is a shame because it means you cannot connect with the people. Of course there are not many women on the streets.

The best thing about Jaipur, (apart from Pizza Hut and McDonalds!) is the Raj Mandir cinema. We went to see a Bollywood film and though the film was horribly predictable and sickly, the experience was wonderful. We have visited the Palace and museum and some wacky astrological monsrosity called the 'scientific astronomy centre'.

We are staying in the best hotel though, just round the corner from Pizza Hut. A safe haven to return to after the vomitous reality that is the city of Jaipur!

A different India

We have found the north of India much different from the south. Maybe it is because there are many more tourists up here. The roads, transport, accommodation, sites and even the harrassment (or lack of it) is much better here.

We arrived off the night train into Jaisalmer at 6am. The town is a little dirty, with lots of hassle, but we settled into our hotel on the ourskirts of town and met up with our Johdphur friends.

The proceeds from the Artist Hotel's rooms and restaurant go to the local community, a village steeped in traditional music. Every night there has been a concert by the locals. One night we even had a Sufi come and play. There is always singing and music being played in and around the hotel (it is in the centre of the small village) and the manager really looks after the families.

Jaisalmer fort is an amazing maze of small streets lined with shops, hotels, restaurants and houses. Sam got headbutted by a cow and has developed a deep dislike for the 'holy' creature. This doubled when she stepped in some cow sh** which occurs every ten steps or so!

We set off on a camel safari with our guide Raju and Ozzie Nicole on very dull morning. The weather however was fine and we were excited about spending the night in the desert. All was great until we stopped for lunch and the wind picked up and the rain started to fall. And it kept falling and falling and falling... Sam and Nicola were very wet, cold and miserable by this time and told Raju that they wanted to go home. Reluctantly he packed up the camels and we trotted back to the Artists Hotel. By the time we got there we were sodden and even Raju was pleased to be back.

Paint, opium and a wedding

Jodhpur is a bustling city on the main tourist trail. We have found a great place to stay here, full of cool backpackers and right in the heart of the city. It is called the 'blue city' due to the indigo tinge of the whitewashed houses around the fort.

We took a tour to see the Bishnoi villagers - a strange mix of hindu and muslim people who live in complete harmony with their environment and establish a symbiotic relationship with nature. At one point 363 of the Bishnoi laid down their lives (Supreme saka) to protest against attempts of local King's men to cut green Khejadli (Prosopis cinraria) trees. Sam got attacked with paint by revellers at the Holi festival and we had a great day meeting the local people. We were offered opium by our guide - the Bishnoi drink it socially. The mix it with sugar and it is quite tasty apparently.

The next day we visited the imposing fort - a massive 15th century A.D. monster. Set on the top of a rocky hill, soaring 125 metres above the plains, it is as impressive inside as it looks from afar.

The big news in town today is that Liz Hurley is getting married at Jodhpur Palace. A guy told us yesterday that she had been seen smoking opium, which you can understand when faced with a four day Indian wedding celebration. The media have gone mad here.

Kumbhalgarh

Impressive Kumbhalgarh is cradled in the cluster of thirteen mountain peaks. Rising from a prominent ridge, the fort was built in 15th century AD by Maharana Kumbha.

Kumbhalgarh stands on the site of an ancient citadel dating back to the second century AD belonging to a Jain descendant of India's Mauryan emperors. It has a 36-kilometer long wall and soaring towers.

The surrounding countryside was stunning and the fort itself spectacular. We spent about four hrs just walking around, taking in the beauty and history.

One day we took a tour into the wildlife sanctuary. The only animals we saw were some wild hens and a peacock. So much for all the leopards, sloth bears and gazelles!!

330 million gods

One things you may not know about Hinduism is that it has only one god - Brahmin (the force, the big kahuna, the one reality). He comes however in three main forms: Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the preserver), and Shiva (the destroyer). All are one. From the big three come the others - wives, sons, enemies etc. In all Hinduism claims 330 million gods and goddesses.

Hindu's pick and choose which god they like. Although there are so many, they are all simply different ways of conceiving the one reality behind all things - Brahman (or something like that!).


What struck us when looking at the Hindu, Christian, Muslim problem (or lack of it) in India is that the reason they all get on is because most of them don't have a clue what their religion means. Ask an ordinary Muslim about the Koran and he'll give a confused, vague answer. The Muslims even have castes up in the north! Ask a Christian about Jesus and he'll tell you about the lattest saint who's 1000 year old body is still on show in the cathedral. Ask a Hindu what they believe and they'll tell you about their god which they have a vague story about.

We have met some born again Christians in the south who were very serious about their beliefs and had a firm set of morals and ethics. The problem with the Hindus (it seems to us) in India is their lack of social responsibility. They are not taught the difference between right and wrong or that they need to care for their neighbours etc. The caste system means that many of them are forces into slavery or a life of begging and destitution. For centuries the notions of reincarnation and karma have been used to support the cruelties of the Indian caste system, which relegates the majority of people to poverty and subservience.

The religion we have been impressed with is that of Sikhism. They do not believe in the caste system and have a very strong work ethic. It is a sort of mixture of Hindu and Muslim belief and they believe strongly in charity and helping the poor. You never see a Sikh begging or ponsing around in designer gear. They are a well mannered, mild, caring people.

The last of the hillstations

Mt Abu stands at 1220 metres, with a cool, pleasant climate. The main focus is the Nakki Lake and we have a very average hotel overlooking it, which is quite stunning at night. It is Holi this weekend and the town is overflowing. Large groups of young men and families of dancers and entertainers have been flooding in, all eager to have a photo taken with the only white people in town. It's like being Bollywood film stars!

Holi is the "Festival of Colours". It always falls on full moon. On the first day, a bonfire is lit at night to signify burning Holika. On the second day, known as Dhulandi, people go around until afternoon throwing colored powder and water at each other. The people drink a cannabis based concoction and go wild. They sing and dance to overcome the power of demons.

Walking down the street in Mt Abu gives you a good indication of Indian demographics. This is slighty askew due to the fact that many woman stay away from Holi due to it's often zealous nature. There are many wealthy families, carrying mobile phones and driving the latest mini car. On the other hand there are many poor, desperate, dirty faces begging for a rupee or a left over piece of toast.

Venice of the East

Commonly known as the 'Venice of east' or the 'City of Lakes', Udaipur is famous for its serene environment, picturesque lakes and spotless gleaming palaces. We got here in the early morning after a flight and a rather bumpy overnight train trip. The city is beautiful. That is the first time we have said that about an Indian city! The lake is wonderful and the surrounding scenery spectacular.

The Lake Palace ($250 a night!) is stunning in the middle of the lake. Octopussy (James Bond) is shown in many restaurants every night and every local has a tale of when they filmed it here. The city is great for shopping and simply sitting in the many rooftop restaurants enjoying the sunset and views.

We splashed out and spent two nights in a 3* hotel with bath, sauna and jacuzzi. Luxury.

Ibiza of the East

We arrived in Goa 6 days ago and are in the middle of our Indian "holiday'. Benaulim beach is peaceful and secluded compared to the mayhem of the rest of Goa. We have been lazing on the beach, eating some great food, chatting with new friends and generally enjoying not being in 'real' India for a few weeks.

We have rented a great apartment for 1000 IRS a night (Tansy Cottages). It is huge and even has a dining room and kitchen. We will go on a day trip to see Old Goa Town if we have the energy, if not it is back to the beach.

We have decided to miss out Mumbai and fly straight to Rajasthan as we were having a nightmare getting trains for the trip up there (three overnight trains). The flight is 2 hrs and means we only have to get one overnight train. Hoorah for cheap (and hopefully safe) Indian domestic flights!

The happy Australian

We are just recovering from a 12 hr train journey from Mysore to Hampi (one night in Hampi) and another 12 hr overnight bus from Hampi to Goa. We have booked into an expensive (19 pound a night) hotel in Benaulim and it is luxury - swimming pool, 100 channel TV, beach at the end of the road. More about that later....

Hampi was a quick stop over to see the ruins of a 17th Century Indian civilisation. The ruins and surrounding scenery were stunning, but the town itself was disappointing. It was dirty with loads of mossies and hassle.

We had only been in town an hour when we we offered drugs and by 5pm the air was thick with the smoke of hundreds of young Israeli's trying to escape the horrors of their recent military service. Still, we battled through the smokey haze and enjoyed the sights and smells as much as possible.

We have taken a lesson from a happy Australian we met at Bangalore train station who was on a two week holiday. He was getting ripped off by rickshaw drivers and shop keepers left, right and centre. He was completely oblivious to this however and was loving every minute of his trip. We vowed to take a leaf out of his book, while at the same time remembering that we do not have a 100 pound a day budget.

EYEsore

Sarah MacDonald in her book 'Holy Cow!' states that "India is beyond statement, for anything you say, the opposite is also true. It's rich and poor, spiritual and material, cruel and kind, angry but peaceful, ugly and beautiful, and smart but stupid. India defies understanding..."

Mysore is a typical Indian town. You walk out of your hotel room after doing battle with two cockroaches who have made home in your bathroom, to be accosted by a beggar with open sores over his whole body. Three rickshaw drivers are shouting at you to get in to their cabs for a tour of the city and you step in fresh cow dung and wish you'd put your boots on instead of sandals.

All this happens before you've had a cup of tea and this seems to make it worse. You search seven different restaurants and hotels desperate for anyone who makes English tea and has something edible for breakfast. Eventually you stumble exhausted and stressed into a quiet place and have a pot of Brooke Bond and some chips. Only after an hour and a half do you feel able to venture out again into the madness that is India.

On a brighter day we visited Mysore Palace with its 25,000 lights and walked up Chumundi hill - all 1000 steps. We have been to a bird sanctuary and wandered around an amazing market. In India I guess you have to take the rough with the smooth; breathe deeply and try to remain calm!

More tea vicar?

From the madness of Allepey and Kochin we have retreated into the tea plantations of Tamil Nadu. High up in the hills, the weather is cool and the air crisp and pleasant. The British planted the tea here in the early 20th century and there are still miles and miles of these plants still alive and giving us a crop of tea every 10 days.

Munnar is a small town full of plantations. We went with a guide around his plantation and saw how they live and work. A simple life, but certainly not a poor one. The work is difficult in the monsoon when it rains constantly and the leeches come and attack the pickers.

The biggest town in the area is Ooty, where we stopped with our friends the Nibletts who work at a school here. We had a great time catching up with them - eating their food and drinking their tea and beer!

They recommeded we go to a small town via a miniture railway called Coonoor. We stopped at the Brookland Christian Guesthouse set in the tea plantations. We were waited on hand a foot and had some great walks. CMS have an orphanage here which we looked around and met some of the kids.

Cruising the backwaters of Kerala

We have just come off a 2 day cruise around the Keralan backwaters which was by far the highlight of India for us so far. Palm trees lined the narrow waterways and we floated past little communities fishing and washing their clothes in the river. We had a huge boat and a 3 man crew to ourselves and were waited on hand and foot. We ate the best food we've had here so far and loved every minute of it. Garry took 200 photos!