Exceeds expectation

They call the Taj Mahal the greatest monument to love in the world. We have been disappointed with most things in India, but when we saw the Taj for the first time we definitely weren't disappointed. It cost the equivalent of US$ 300 million in today's money to build and is worth every cent. We crossed the river yesterday and saw the Taj from the back - no tourists and great light. Today we will visit the red fort and 'little' Taj' and tomorrow go and walk round the Taj Mahal.

Agra is a poor city - one of the poorest we have seen. We wondered where the money (ten pounds for tourists) goes to - definitely not the people.

There a few other sights to see in Agra including the Fort and a few old churches. The Red Fort was impressive, but we'd seen so many by this time that it was just another big, red, old, building! The weather has become more stifling and the heat oppressive.

The eye of the tiger

Garry got up at 5am to catch the jeep going into Ranthambore National Park. The aim was to spot the Indian tiger. There aren't many of them left, but Ranthambore is one of the best places to spot one. He woke Sam up at 10am with a cup of tea and a scowl. No tiger this time.

We both went out in the afternoon and after spotting crocodiles, deer, wild boar, owls and hundreds of birds we came out of the park without seeing the tiger. Gggrrrrrrr....

The park was beautiful and although we were disappointed (as well as broke!) it was a great experience. We caught the train to Agra with an Irish couple who were fresh off the boat horrified that we had travelled through India like this. The train was busy and we had no seats so it was a bit rough. We arrived at Agra at 10.30pm and didn't realise that our hotel had a great view of the Taj Mahal until we woke up the next morning and opened the curtains. WOW!

Ephesians 6

We must be the only people to visited India and never step foot in a temple. Although Hinduism claims 330 million gods and goddesses, we have paid homage to none of them. Whereever you go there is someone asking if you would like to have a blessing from the goddess Parvati or some demonic one eye monstrosity with 50 arms. Someone will grab your hand and start to read your palm as you walk down the street and we have to very politely explain that we can't use their service or worship their gods as we are born again, bible believeing Christians and our God is a jealous God.

Thoughts on religion in India

What struck us when looking at the Hindu, Christian, Muslim problem (or lack of it) in India is that the reason they all get on is because most of them don't have a clue what their religion means. Ask an ordinary Muslim about the Koran and he'll give a confused, vague answer. The Muslims even have castes up in the north! Ask a Christian about Jesus and he'll tell you about the lattest saint who's 1000 year old body is still on show in the cathedral. Ask a Hindu what they believe and they'll tell you about their god which they have a vague story about.

We have met some born again Christians in the south who were very serious about their beliefs and had a firm set of morals and ethics. The problem with the Hindus (it seems to us) in India is their lack of social responsibility. They are not taught the difference between right and wrong or that they need to care for their neighbours etc. The caste system means that many of them are forces into slavery or a life of begging and destitution. For centuries the notions of reincarnation and karma have been used to support the cruelties of the Indian caste system, which relegates the majority of people to poverty and subservience.

The religion we have been impressed with is that of Sikhism. They do not believe in the caste system and have a very strong work ethic. It is a sort of mixture of Hindu and Muslim belief and they believe strongly in charity and helping the poor. You never see a Sikh begging or ponsing around in designer gear. They are a well mannered, mild, caring people.

One thing is for certain (if you believe in a spiritual realm), that the dark forces of this world are very much alive and kicking in India. The Bible says: "For we struggle not against flesh and blood, but against the kingdoms, against the powers, against the leaders of this darkness, against spiritual wickedness in the high places" Ephesians 6:12.

The fastest Indian

We have met some great Indians. All of them believe that India is racially superior to the rest of the world and believe their government's propaganda that India will be the world's superpower by 2050. The upper middle classes (especially the Brahmin) live in a different world to the normal people. The racist is staggering here. A light skinned person won't accept food from someone darker than them for example.

The poor view life very simply. They live from hand to mouth, never looking to the future or planning. If they have more money - their lifestyle doesn't improve. They will buy a new camel rather than improving their home or buying new clothes.

The pink city

We have loved the past two weeks. Things have been easier and much more enjoyable. We thought we were on a roll and the north would be a much more pleasant experience. That was until we arrived into the horror that is Jaipur.

Sam gets constant pervy looks and the men jeer as she walks down the street. She has adopted the usual western woman look when in India - looking vacantly up into the air, avoiding eye contact with anything in trousers and completely ignoring them when they speak. Here, only prostitutes look men in the eye. It is a shame because it means you cannot connect with the people. Of course there are not many women on the streets.

The best thing about Jaipur, (apart from Pizza Hut and McDonalds!) is the Raj Mandir cinema. We went to see a Bollywood film and though the film was horribly predictable and sickly, the experience was wonderful. We have visited the Palace and museum and some wacky astrological monsrosity called the 'scientific astronomy centre'.

We are staying in the best hotel though, just round the corner from Pizza Hut. A safe haven to return to after the vomitous reality that is the city of Jaipur!

A different India

We have found the north of India much different from the south. Maybe it is because there are many more tourists up here. The roads, transport, accommodation, sites and even the harrassment (or lack of it) is much better here.

We arrived off the night train into Jaisalmer at 6am. The town is a little dirty, with lots of hassle, but we settled into our hotel on the ourskirts of town and met up with our Johdphur friends.

The proceeds from the Artist Hotel's rooms and restaurant go to the local community, a village steeped in traditional music. Every night there has been a concert by the locals. One night we even had a Sufi come and play. There is always singing and music being played in and around the hotel (it is in the centre of the small village) and the manager really looks after the families.

Jaisalmer fort is an amazing maze of small streets lined with shops, hotels, restaurants and houses. Sam got headbutted by a cow and has developed a deep dislike for the 'holy' creature. This doubled when she stepped in some cow sh** which occurs every ten steps or so!

We set off on a camel safari with our guide Raju and Ozzie Nicole on very dull morning. The weather however was fine and we were excited about spending the night in the desert. All was great until we stopped for lunch and the wind picked up and the rain started to fall. And it kept falling and falling and falling... Sam and Nicola were very wet, cold and miserable by this time and told Raju that they wanted to go home. Reluctantly he packed up the camels and we trotted back to the Artists Hotel. By the time we got there we were sodden and even Raju was pleased to be back.

Paint, opium and a wedding

Jodhpur is a bustling city on the main tourist trail. We have found a great place to stay here, full of cool backpackers and right in the heart of the city. It is called the 'blue city' due to the indigo tinge of the whitewashed houses around the fort.

We took a tour to see the Bishnoi villagers - a strange mix of hindu and muslim people who live in complete harmony with their environment and establish a symbiotic relationship with nature. At one point 363 of the Bishnoi laid down their lives (Supreme saka) to protest against attempts of local King's men to cut green Khejadli (Prosopis cinraria) trees. Sam got attacked with paint by revellers at the Holi festival and we had a great day meeting the local people. We were offered opium by our guide - the Bishnoi drink it socially. The mix it with sugar and it is quite tasty apparently.

The next day we visited the imposing fort - a massive 15th century A.D. monster. Set on the top of a rocky hill, soaring 125 metres above the plains, it is as impressive inside as it looks from afar.

The big news in town today is that Liz Hurley is getting married at Jodhpur Palace. A guy told us yesterday that she had been seen smoking opium, which you can understand when faced with a four day Indian wedding celebration. The media have gone mad here.

Kumbhalgarh

Impressive Kumbhalgarh is cradled in the cluster of thirteen mountain peaks. Rising from a prominent ridge, the fort was built in 15th century AD by Maharana Kumbha.

Kumbhalgarh stands on the site of an ancient citadel dating back to the second century AD belonging to a Jain descendant of India's Mauryan emperors. It has a 36-kilometer long wall and soaring towers.

The surrounding countryside was stunning and the fort itself spectacular. We spent about four hrs just walking around, taking in the beauty and history.

One day we took a tour into the wildlife sanctuary. The only animals we saw were some wild hens and a peacock. So much for all the leopards, sloth bears and gazelles!!

330 million gods

One things you may not know about Hinduism is that it has only one god - Brahmin (the force, the big kahuna, the one reality). He comes however in three main forms: Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the preserver), and Shiva (the destroyer). All are one. From the big three come the others - wives, sons, enemies etc. In all Hinduism claims 330 million gods and goddesses.

Hindu's pick and choose which god they like. Although there are so many, they are all simply different ways of conceiving the one reality behind all things - Brahman (or something like that!).


What struck us when looking at the Hindu, Christian, Muslim problem (or lack of it) in India is that the reason they all get on is because most of them don't have a clue what their religion means. Ask an ordinary Muslim about the Koran and he'll give a confused, vague answer. The Muslims even have castes up in the north! Ask a Christian about Jesus and he'll tell you about the lattest saint who's 1000 year old body is still on show in the cathedral. Ask a Hindu what they believe and they'll tell you about their god which they have a vague story about.

We have met some born again Christians in the south who were very serious about their beliefs and had a firm set of morals and ethics. The problem with the Hindus (it seems to us) in India is their lack of social responsibility. They are not taught the difference between right and wrong or that they need to care for their neighbours etc. The caste system means that many of them are forces into slavery or a life of begging and destitution. For centuries the notions of reincarnation and karma have been used to support the cruelties of the Indian caste system, which relegates the majority of people to poverty and subservience.

The religion we have been impressed with is that of Sikhism. They do not believe in the caste system and have a very strong work ethic. It is a sort of mixture of Hindu and Muslim belief and they believe strongly in charity and helping the poor. You never see a Sikh begging or ponsing around in designer gear. They are a well mannered, mild, caring people.

The last of the hillstations

Mt Abu stands at 1220 metres, with a cool, pleasant climate. The main focus is the Nakki Lake and we have a very average hotel overlooking it, which is quite stunning at night. It is Holi this weekend and the town is overflowing. Large groups of young men and families of dancers and entertainers have been flooding in, all eager to have a photo taken with the only white people in town. It's like being Bollywood film stars!

Holi is the "Festival of Colours". It always falls on full moon. On the first day, a bonfire is lit at night to signify burning Holika. On the second day, known as Dhulandi, people go around until afternoon throwing colored powder and water at each other. The people drink a cannabis based concoction and go wild. They sing and dance to overcome the power of demons.

Walking down the street in Mt Abu gives you a good indication of Indian demographics. This is slighty askew due to the fact that many woman stay away from Holi due to it's often zealous nature. There are many wealthy families, carrying mobile phones and driving the latest mini car. On the other hand there are many poor, desperate, dirty faces begging for a rupee or a left over piece of toast.